The Final Step - Spain

Welcome Home!  

We have traversed foreign lands, spoken several different languages and explored areas that have burned memories into our brains forever.  This trip was a once in a lifetime experience.  There is no way I could write down all of the significant stories and journeys from a month long study abroad trip in one blog post, so here are some of the highlights:

Madrid: Where it all Began

 The view from outside our apartment was amazing.  The market was down below and the sunsets were amazing!

Also while we were in Madrid, we did get to attend the bullfight and learned so much from it thanks to Omar and his fluent Spanish!  There were 6 bulls total and, let's just say it was definitely a bloody endeavor but well worth it.  A big thank you to the bulls who put up a good fight on their end yet were sacrificed anyway.

Next Step: San Sebastian 
where we officially began exploring what it meant to eat good food!
 Our bellies led us to the restaurant Txondorra where the girls and I had the opportunity to purchase our first bottle of wine: a Landaluce to pair nicely with my unknown meal. (P.S. we did and you should always drink responsibly).  Mind you, I had no idea what I was ordering but I pointed to the menu and did my best to pronounce my choice; the Txipirones a la plancha con verdura, patata paja y bouquet de ensalada.  All I knew was it would appear with something that was an attempted salad... you never know with different restaurants, especially in a foreign language.
     What soon appeared before me were what looked like tiny little fish shapes with their tales and heads removed.  And then I bit into one.  What I had before me was no mere fish... it was calamari.  Even more shocking: I liked it!

Jeff our professor lived for a short while in San Sebastian and wished to treat us to his favorite after-work eatery: the Mejillonera which specialized in muscles and I can assure you they most certainly did.  Following the "muscle suck" where you slurp the muscle from it's shell, you proceed to throw the shells on the ground making this place an easy after-work getaway for some scrumptious  muscle tapas and the opportunity to make a little bit of a mess.  Then you wash it down with a nice pimiento (pepper). YUM!

      Through a series of fortunate events for myself, I was granted the opportunity to tag along with a good portion of the group to Arzak, a 5 star restaurant that serves fancily and scientifically concaucted/ constructed food.  Each and every plate set before us was plated to perfection and came with an extensive title explaining just what was sitting in front of you.  We all received a menu at the completion of our meal. Those must have been walking out the door with customers so they alleviated the problem themselves.  One personal recommendation: get the corn soup, it was our favorite thing on the menu with a close second by the giant truffle!

San Sebastian from the beach at night

Next City: The Travel Change Up!     

     As a delightful surprise, a small group of us spontaneously decided to hop the boarder over to Biarritz, France for a day of lying on the beach and tasting some authentic crepes. 

Also, it is customary to make a wish when you try a new fruit!  Sarah and I can't reveal our wishes, but we can reveal that we LOVE figs!














Next City: See Bulls Run. Run Bulls Run!
     We trained over to Pamplona and, for those of you familiar with the running of the bulls, this is where it all takes place.    

 One of the most common ways to eat cheap when you travel is at a grocery store and man did we become fast at identifying those stores.  A little bocadillo and some olives and we were set for the afternoon!

   The running of the bulls takes a very short amount of time, which was exactly what we had in Pamplona.  So, for our explorer day I wanted to walk the same path the bulls and humans run every year.  This big red door is the entrance to La Plaza de Torros where each bull will stare death in the face of a matador.

     You never know what you might find!  There were a few members of our group who knew Hemingway (yes the author) used to frequent a bar where he would sit in his usual seat and write.  They looked hard enough and, tucked away in a back corner of the restaurant, down a small flight of stairs and behind a set of doors, they found it. You can see him in the back of our photo!  We thought he was a happy looking man considering how old he must be now :)




     As our journey forged onward, this is the point at which our group became less afraid of looking behind closed doors and asking questions.  We were a curious bunch!  So, as you begin your own travels, start early, don't be afraid to look around you and explore.  I don't want to miss the little quirks and secrets of a city just as much as I don't want to miss the big ones.


My Most Anticipated Part: El Camino

      We had been staying in nice hostels and traveling easily.  My backpack still zipped and my clothes were relatively clean even though we had been on the road about a week.  And then we hit the Camino... rather the Camino hit us!

     Our support van took most of the adventurer's packs, but the four of us weren't about to give them up.  We made a deal to attempt the Camino while carrying all of our belongings (of which I originally intended because I had no idea the support van was even going to exist!).  The four who started out dropped to three for the second day and two for the third and final day.  Cameron

and I were the only two to finish our travels on the Camino complete with pack.  And it was totally worth it.

     Our journey began in Pamplona and we walked to Los Arcos which was about 21 km per day.  Thousands of travelers embark on the Camino every year and, every year, those travelers are guided by the golden shells.  They are in all forms, some painted on the sides of buildings.  Others on stone pillars sticking out from the ground.  Others etched into the pathway.  Each one unique and each one as helpful as the last in pilgrims reaching their destination.
     Along with shells showing the way, all of the Camino pilgrims wear the shell as a symbol of their journey.  It allows residents of towns and restaurants to identify who is traveling (the big backpack is another dead giveaway).
     Many of us met several people along the way.  When I asked why others were making this journey, I never received a response that wasn't tied with, "because I am trying to make a big decision in my life" or "I don't know what to do next."  These responses resonated with me.  I also am unsure of my future however, I do feel I have the confidence to discover it.  And as they say on this journey to travelers: Buen Comino.  It is a saying implying a safe and encouraging journey.  Happy travels!

Valencia!

This city took us on an entirely different adventure in regards to food because we finally were in a place to cook for ourselves!  We pulled together all of our talents and food knowledge and put our teamwork to the test.  Food began flying into the oven, out of the oven, out of the pan, and into our mouths before we knew it!  And it was delicious.  Eating out has great benefits, but we all know how much a home cooked meal is appreciated on the road.

      Our first night cooking was a blast, but our culinary knowledge was not well versed in paella which was on the menu for our first cooking lesson.
       Our hostess was more than generous in providing all of the necessary materials to cook our new meal and it was a blast.  Our version included rabbit meat, fresh peas, and a special sort of paella rice.  It was served with gazpacho (a cold tomato drink) and it was mighty delicious if I do say so myself!

The Final Step - Morocco

Salaam from Morocco!

     After a night of star gazing and being gently rocked to sleep by the sea we arrived in Melilla, Spain.  We had arranged to be picked up by a driver however, upon arrival our driver was going to meet us at the boarder... THE BOARDER?  Little did we realize we were still in Spain!  But on the continent of Africa!  That was a loophole we were not anticipating.  A short taxi ride and passport stamp later we crossed the boarder... and just in time.
     At 8:00 am sharp the boarder opened and a multitude of Moroccans were attempting to get into Melilla to purchase reduced goods.  And they were adamant about it.  The first thing we witnessed across the boarder (and it was 6 am in the time zone our bodies were operating in), people were driving around the roundabout, over the roundabout, and into the roundabout!  Cars were scraping together, people were shouting and police officers whistles were blowing.  All we could do was stand there and watch.  As much as they were a charade for us, we were for them too.  White people stick out like a sore thumb!

      Our riad was magnificent.  Tucked back through the market we turned right, left, right, left, left, right down narrow and dusty streets when we happened upon a door.  It was a fairly humble looking wooden door however upon entrance, it was a palace fit for ambassadors and sultans.  The picture to the left, that was mine and Annabel's room.  Yeah, we were shocked too!
   
     While we were in Fez, we visited the most famous school for pottery and tile work and got to see the students in action.  Their daily tasks varied from cutting intricate shapes from tiles, molding and sculpting pottery, painting and assembling/ arranging artwork to be plastered for a finished project.
      We finished in the gallery where there were more than enough opportunities to purchase tables, bowls, platters, fountains, cups among several others.  After the pottery and tiles, we encountered the same plethora of options with rugs, leather, and a weavers.  It was a monumental shopping day to say the least!


 

     One of my favorite activities was our Moroccan cooking lesson!  Our hostess and head chef helped us create a divine chicken tagine.  For those who don't remember, a tagine is a terracotta dish with a top that resembles a volcano.  They are placed directly on the stove and are used as slow cookers.
     Our hostess also had caramelized onions the chicken laid over and meatballs cooking in the tagine and an all purpose sauce.  The main dish was accompanied by roasted peppers and eggplant and, of course, bread!

      We loaded a bus and spent our fair share travelling around the country looking at the amazing scenery.  It was beautiful and it was HOT! Our driver. Abraham, was quite knowledgeable about the cities we visited and the rivers and mountains we were crossing.  And he was funny too.  The front seat was the place to be because you had the window up/down option, a much wider view, and the great seat!

      We finally reached the desert and we were late!  We needed to get into the desert asap before the sun fully set and our tour guides weren't going to waste any time.  As soon as your feet hit the sand they were wrapping you with a turban and hustled us onto our camels.
     As I am sure all tourists do, we promptly named our camels as we made our way into the desert at sunset.  Some of the creative names we devised were: Baba ganoush, Octavious, Vanilla, Chief, and Yayita.  Regardless to say, we were quite the camel namers.
     We lumbered our way into the desert and parked our camels but there were no tents.  Until we hiked up the sand hill and looked down into a lit up little village where lanterns led the way to dinner tables where we were soon to eat a home cooked meal and enjoy the quiet and the stars! Our tents were far from "ruffin' it" tents due to the fact that each one was fully equipped with indoor plumbing.  Yes, that's right, indoor plumbing.  Yes we are in the desert.  This meant a shower, toilet, and running sink all wrapped up in a bamboo house that was insulated with camel hair blankets.  Talk about pampered!  We did find out that the toilets only had one flush in the morning... oops.

      We remounted our camels and rode out of the desert that morning after a delightful breakfast and loaded the van.  After more driving we landed at a kasbah, well many of them.  In fact, a kasbah is a building, usually a home, comprised of four pillars connected by the home's walls and an open court in the middle.  Each family contains multiple generations and often farm animals accompany them inside the courtyard.  A village is made up of several kasbahs.  The particular village we visited was home to 8 families and a long history of being the set for movies.  Sodom and Gomorrah, Indiana Jones, Jesus of Nazareth, Gladiator, The Mummy, Babel, Prince of Persia, and Game of Thrones are among the most popular films utilizing this destination in their story line.
     Our short time abroad soon came to an end so we decided to go out with a big bang!  Our final farewell dinner was held at Casablanca's very own Rick's Cafe which is the famous eatery in the film.  We almost weren't let in due to the dress code, actually the host shut the front door on us when he spotted us considering eating in his fine restaurant.  So, as we approached it from the opposite way, sending our two best dressed ahead of us and around the corner to make a reservation.  After convincing the host it was our last night and following our meal we were headed straight to the airport, they quickly shuffled us to the far back corner.  On the bright side, we were served by a man wearing a fez and the food was absolutely delicious.  One recommendation, get the chocolate lava cake for dessert, it was well worth it!
     And so, with great remorse, we loaded the 2 am flight headed to Frankfurt and that was it.  Farewell Morocco, adios Frankfurt.  I know I will be back!

Step 9

Kingdom of Morocco!

For those of us venturous enough to continue the journey, Morocco, Africa is just a ferry ride away from the now familiar Spain.  This country is fluent in French and Arabic but has traces of Spanish and our beloved English.  Because of its diverse background and multiple rulers, the culture has been passed through many different cultures and is currently under Islamic influence.  As an Arabic country, its full Arabic name is Al-Mamlaka al-Maghribiya. 




446,550 square kilometers of differing terrain, including the Atlas and Rif Mountains scattered through the Sahara desert, occupy Morocco.  And among the beautiful landscape live some of the most friendly people.  The majority of the inhabitants have adopted the Islamic religious tradition, specifically Sunni Islam however Muslim is also a major presence among locals.  Some may even be caught taking a horse carriage or camel around the desert!

Our journey will take us across the Mediterranean Sea by ferry to Motril, El Hoceima, Fes, Tadra Gorge, Merzouga, Marrakech, and finally Casablanca (pictured below).  


I read that Morocco has been referred to as the "Oasis of the Senses" and has been wooing visitors for centuries.  Its capital is Rabbat but the best place to get local sea food is Essaouira on the coast.  The largest City in Morocco is Casablanca which has a movie created from the beautiful and well-populated city. 

Step 8

La capital de la Costa del Sol es Málaga.


Málaga sits in the middle of the Andalusia region which covers roughly 87,268 square kilometers (or 33,694 square miles) and is easily confused with the Málaga province.  A breakdown was helpful to understand the city's location:

This is Spain with the Andalusia region highlighted in red


A closeup of Andalucia and the province of Málaga 


the province of Málaga zoomed in with the city pinpointed.  


The city is surprisingly not a major tourist attraction, despite the masses that pass through it's airport.  It is the second largest by population in the Andalusia and claimed to be among the poorest in stature yet richest in hospitality and friendliness.  Its atmosphere is comprised of delightful historically and archaeologically rich background and small, personable quirks including exquisite museums, unique roof terraces, and countless street art canvases decorated with graffiti.  It is sprinkled with  tapas bars and shops along the seafront.  Andalucia.com established the tip 10 best places to explore in Málaga which makes it easier for us!

1. The one and only Picasso was born in Málaga so it is only fitting his museum containing personal artifacts and some of his most intimate works are housed here.  Only a two minutes walking distance from his birthplace (Casa Natal), both the museum and his first home can and should be viewed in the same day to fulfill a complete experience of the unique artist.  The Museo Picasso was inaugurated on the 27th of October, 2003 and from that day on, thousands of tourists and locals alike gather to view incredible works of Picasso's art and life story.  (BONUS: admission is half price for students up to 26 years old with a valid ID!) 

2. Alcazaba is one of the two Moorish fortresses.  It oversees the city sporting a beautiful view of the area below, stretching to the sea and even across the Mediterranean to Africa!  It's history dates back to the 8th century and is the best preserved Moorish fortress in Spain.  It was originally constructed to defend against pirates and, as it aged, the Alcazaba retains two of its original three walls, 100 towers, and three palaces!

3.  Embedded in a restored marked, the Centro de Arte Contemporáneo is home to over 400 works of contemporary art donated by private collectors.  It even has a little taste of home with pieces from North American artists of the 1960's such as Lichtenstein and Stella... not to mention it is free!

4. Neighboring the Alcazaba  fortress with stellar views of the city, the port and with special mention of the bullring, Gibralfaro Parador is a wonderful spot to enjoy an elegant afternoon basking in the sun and enjoy a glass of wine from the dining room and/or the cafe bar.

5. The Muelle Uno is a beautiful seafront shoppers dream filled with items anywhere from interiors to clothes.

6. You can have as many arms as you need to visit the Gothinc-Baroque basilica called La Manquita, also known as the "One Armed Woman."  Just don't offend it by looking for the second tower, that's the arm that is unaccounted for!  

7. El Pedregalejo used to be claimed as a fishing town but now has some wonderful, quaint cafes and restaurants lining the beach front.  

8. All types are welcomed and accommodated for by the extensive option of museums!  You can find a spot for all your interests including, but not limited to: cars, fashion, interiors, glass, wine, doll houses, music and, of course, art. 

9. The oldest monument of the city is the Roman Theater that is used in the summer months!

10.  BEACHES! It is the capital of the Sun Coast after all!